.” This is the only show in Shanghai where you’ll see some hot boys,” joked a buddy at Ximon Lee, the final path presentation at the Shanghai assortments. “You’ll find lovely girls and classic Chinese Tai Tai’s [an idiomatic condition for a rich, wedded gal], those type of styles, yet merely here you’ll fume men!” The site for Lee’s humid train of smoke-shows was the smokier Shanghai club Heim, which reopened at a brand-new area earlier this year. For the uninitiated, Lee is actually a Hong Kong-born, Berlin-based menswear designer that introduced his label in Brooklyn in 2014 after research studies at Parsons.
He was nominated for the 2015 LVMH Prize as well as was actually the very first menswear designer to gain the H&M Layout Award that same year. Lee possesses a fair share of well-earned clout, but has for years moved reasonably subtly, shrouded due to the spacious nightclub lifestyle environment that has long updated his clothes.This selection, Lee mentioned backstage, was freely inspired due to the coming of age stories in the Eastern creed film All About Lily Chou Chou. He ruminated on the idea of private metamorphosis, as well as showed up to take advantage of the tensions of being actually younger– sensation unyielding, developing a feeling of fond memories, the stress of possibility– by constructing an assortment that forecasted some capitivating awkwardness.If none of this seems particularly sexy or even like a closet enriched for a great gathering, it’s given that Lee’s primary preoccupation isn’t allure, as well as neither is actually the club.
Some traits come typically, however, so his plan was full of saucy as well as unquestionably trendy menswear designs: micro shorts, one-shoulder draped tops or furnished container tops, lustrous shirting, and a pair of satiny underpants that a fellow attendee showed up component a built-in jockstrap. An operate of novel and fashionable button-downs were actually the best compelling: The short sleeves on one were really dress shirt cuffs, while an additional’s were knitted to longer panels to create full-length sleeves.This reveal noticeable Lee’s go back to the runway in Shanghai. “This period has been testing yet it felt relevant to do a program considering that I want to experience honored,” he pointed out.
Lee had actually been showing his selection by means of lookbook and also in display rooms. While it’s excellent to become capable to observe his develop close– do not let the barely-thereness of Lee’s garments mislead you, he is actually fairly the nimble technical designer– these clothing are all greatest experienced in context. The after-party that complied with the series took place in the exact same site: In between the techno faithfuls stomping in position where the makeshift runway had been earlier and the manner crowd party outside to catch up at the tail-end of a long and exciting season, it was actually an odds to attest to Lee’s brand of municipal, rave-ready provocativeness completely throttle..